|
|
PROGRESS OF RESEARCH ON DIETARY ACCULTURATION OF TRANSNATIONAL IMMIGRANTS FROM THE PERSPECTIVE OF CULTURAL GEOGRAPHY |
ZHONG Shu-ru, ZHANG Xiao-xuan, ZENG Guo-jun |
School of Tourism Management, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China |
|
|
Abstract Under the process of globalization, transnational immigrant groups have become a realistic carrier of cultural exchanges, conflicts and renegotiations between different regions and countries. Their original food cultures are challenged to varying degrees and collide and integrate with local food cultures, often caught in the dilemma of maintaining the culture of the origin and integrating into the local dietary pattern, resulting in serious dietary acculturation problems. This paper reviews the domestic and international research on dietary acculturation of transnational immigrants, and finds that the disciplinary paradigm of nutrition science has dominated early research, focusing on the material attributes of diets and direct observation of the level of dietary adaptation of transnational immigrants, with little discussion on the embodiments and subjectivities, local relations and cultural implications of dietary acculturation. Research on transnational migrant dietary acculturation from a cultural geography perspective has focused on the following three aspects:The dynamic process of dietary acculturation guided by trans-local subjectivity at the body scale, the production and reconstruction of transnational dietary landscapes at the local scale, and the complex relationship between dietary acculturation and identity at the interactive scale of body and place. The paper concludes by proposing possible topics for future research on dietary acculturation of transnational immigrants. As China has become an emerging destination for transnational migrants. The research on dietary acculturation not only helps to guide new theoretical trends in food geography, but also contributes to the promotion of social integration of transnational immigrants in China, the development of a diverse and balanced urban foodscape, and the enhancement of the soft power of food culture.
|
Received: 19 November 2020
|
|
|
|
|
[1] |
Satia-Abouta J. Dietary acculturation:Definition, process, assessment, and implications[J]. International Journal of Human Ecology, 2003,4(4):2109-2117.
|
[2] |
Lehmann A, Leonard P. Destination China Immigration to China in the Post-Reform Era:Immigration to China in the Post-Reform Era[M]. New York:Palgrave Macmillan, 2019:1-17.
|
[3] |
Appadurai A. Modernity at Large:Cultural Dimensions of Globalization[M]. Minneapolis, Minnesota:University of Minnesota Press, 1996:48-65.
|
[4] |
Bojanic D, Xu Y Y. An investigation of acculturation and the diningout behavior of Chinese living in the United States[J]. International Journal of Hospitality Management, 2006,25(2):211-226.
|
[5] |
Satia-Abouta J, Patterson R E, Neuhouser M L, et al. Dietary acculturation:Applications to nutrition research and dietetics[J]. Journal of the American Dietetic Association, 2002,102(8):1105-1118.
|
[6] |
Gasparetti F. Food and migration workshop:The cultural meaning of food and its polyvalent role in the construction of identity among Senegalese migrants in Italy[C]. London:School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London. SOAS., 2009:17-18.
|
[7] |
Sam D L, Berry J W. Acculturation:When individuals and groups of different cultural backgrounds meet[J]. Perspectives on Psychological Science, 2010,5(4):472-481.
|
[8] |
蔡晓梅,刘晨.人文地理学视角下的国外饮食文化研究进展[J].人文地理,2013,28(5):36-41.[Cai Xiaomei, Liu Chen. Progress in the foreign geographical food studies[J]. Human Geography, 2013, 28(5):36-41.]
|
[9] |
Bell D, Valentine G. Consuming Geographies:We are Where We Eat[M]. London:Routledge, 1997:239-262.
|
[10] |
陶伟,王绍续,朱竑.身体、身体观以及人文地理学对身体的研究[J].地理研究,2015,34(6):1173-1187.[Tao Wei, Wang Shaoxu, Zhu Hong. The body, the view of body, and the study of body in human geography[J]. Geographical Research, 2015,34(6):1173-1187.]
|
[11] |
Hayes-Conroy A, Martin D G. Mobilising bodies:Visceral identification in the slow food movement[J]. Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 2010,35(2):269-281.
|
[12] |
叶超,柴彦威,张小林. "空间的生产"理论,研究进展及其对中国城市研究的启示[J].经济地理,2011,31(3):409-413.[Ye Chao, Chai Yanwei, Zhang Xiaolin. Review on studies on production of urban space[J]. Economic Geography, 2011,31(3):409-413.]
|
[13] |
Chang R C Y, Kivela J, Mak A H N. Food preferences of Chinese tourists[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2010,37(4):989-1011.
|
[14] |
Tellstr M R, Gustafsson I B, Mossberg L. Consuming heritage:The use of local food culture in branding[J]. Place Branding, 2006,2(2):130-143.
|
[15] |
Gabaccia D R. We are What We Eat:Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans[M]. Cambridge, Massachusetts:Harvard University Press, 1998:202-234.
|
[16] |
Chapman G E, Beagan B L. Food practices and transnational identities:Case studies of two Punjabi-Canadian families[J]. Food Culture & Society, 2013,16(3):367-386.
|
[17] |
Akresh I R. Dietary assimilation and health among Hispanic immigrants to the United States[J]. Journal of Health and Social Behavior, 2007,48(4):404-417.
|
[18] |
Marilyn Tseng, David J Wright, Carolyn Y. Fang. Acculturation and dietary change among Chinese immigrant women in the United States[J]. Journal of Immigrant and Minority Health, 2015,17(2):400-405.
|
[19] |
Martínez, Airín D. Reconsidering acculturation in dietary change research among Latino immigrants:Challenging the preconditions of US migration[J]. Ethnicity & Health, 2013,18(2):115-135.
|
[20] |
Ramirez, Susana A, Golash-Boza, et al. Questioning the dietary ac-culturation paradox:A mixed-methods study of the relationship between food and ethnic identity in a group of Mexican-American women[J]. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, 2018, 118(3):431-439.
|
[21] |
Patil C L, Hadley C, Nahayo P D. Unpacking dietary acculturation among new Americans:Results from formative research with African refugees[J]. Journal of Immigrant & Minority Health, 2009, 11(5):342-358.
|
[22] |
Lee S P. Eating solo:Food practices of older Hong Kong Chinese migrants in England[J]. Food & Foodways, 2015,23(3):210-230.
|
[23] |
Helen, Vallianatos, Kim Raine. Consuming food and constructing identities among Arabic and South Asian immigrant women[J]. Food Culture & Society, 2008,11(3):355-373.
|
[24] |
Brimblecombe N, Dorling D, Shaw M. Migration and geographical inequalities in health in Britain[J]. Social Ence & Medicine, 2000, 50(6):861-878.
|
[25] |
Dhokarh R, Himmelgreen D A, Peng Y K, et al. Food insecurity is associated with acculturation and social networks in Puerto Rican households[J]. Journal of Nutrition Education & Behavior, 2011, 43(4):288-294.
|
[26] |
Verbeke W, Poquiviqui L G. Ethnic food attitudes and behaviour among Belgians and Hispanics living in Belgium[J]. British Food Journal, 2005,107(11):823-840.
|
[27] |
Venkatesh S, Weatherspoon L J. Food behaviors and dietary acculturation of Asian Indians in the US[J]. Journal of Nutrition Education and Behavior, 2018,50(6),529-535.
|
[28] |
钱俊希,朱竑.新文化地理学的理论统一性与话题多样性[J].地理研究,2015,34(3):422-436.[Qian Junxi, Zhu Hong. Theoretical unity and thematic diversity in new cultural geography[J]. Geographical Research, 2015,34(3):422-436.]
|
[29] |
周尚意,唐顺英,戴俊骋. "地方"概念对人文地理学各分支意义的辨识[J].人文地理,2011,26(6):10-13,9.[Zhou Shangyi, Tang Shunying, Dai Juncheng. The identification of the meaning of the concept of place to the branch of human geography[J]. Human Geography, 2011,26(6):10-13,9.]
|
[30] |
白凯,周尚意,吕洋洋.社会文化地理学在中国近10年的进展[J].地理学报,2014,69(8):1190-1206.[Bai Kai, Zhou Shangyi, Lv Yangyang. The progress of social cultural geography in China in recent 10 years[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2014,69(8):1190-1206.]
|
[31] |
Moragues-Faus A, Marsden T. The political ecology of food:Carving "spaces of possibility" in a new research agenda[J]. Journal of Rural Studies, 2017,55:275-288.
|
[32] |
曾国军,王龙杰.饮食文化生产中的原真性、食品安全与食品健康[J].旅游导刊,2018,2(4):15-30.[Zeng Guojun, Wang Longjie. Production of food culture:Authenticity, food safety and food health[J]. Tourism and Hospitality Prospects, 2018,2(4):15-30.]
|
[33] |
周尚意.人文主义地理学家眼中的"地方"[J].旅游学刊,2013,28(4):7-8.[Zhou Shangyi. "Place" in the eyes of humanist geographers[J]. Tourism Tribune, 2013,28(4):7-8.]
|
[34] |
Del Casino V J. Social geography I:Food[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2014,39(6):800-808.
|
[35] |
Korsmeyer C. The Taste Culture Reader[M]. New York:Berg, 2005:291-334.
|
[36] |
Sutton D E. Food and the senses[J]. Annual Review of Anthropology, 2010,39:209-223.
|
[37] |
Stoller P. The Taste of Ethnographic Things:The Senses in Anthropology[M]. Philadelphia:University of Pennsylvania Press, 1989:125-141.
|
[38] |
Seneviratne H L. Food Essence and the Essence of Eexperience[M]. New York:State University of New York Press,1992:179-200.
|
[39] |
Holtzman, Jon D. Food and memory[J]. Annual Review of Anthropology, 2006,35(1):361-378.
|
[40] |
Beardsworth A, Keil T. Sociology on the Menu[M]. London:Routledge, 1996:13-31.
|
[41] |
Everts J, Jackson P. Modernisation and the practices of contemporary food shopping[J]. Environment and Planning D:Society and Space, 2009,27(5):917-935.
|
[42] |
Tookes, Jennifer, Sweeney. "The food represents":Barbadian foodways in the diaspora[J]. Appetite, 2015,90:65-73.
|
[43] |
Srinivas, Tulasi. Everyday exotic:Transnational space, identity and contemporary foodways in Bangalore city[J]. Food Culture & Society an International Journal of Multidisciplinary Research, 2007, 10(1):85-107.
|
[44] |
朱竑,封丹,王彬.全球化背景下城市文化地理研究的新趋势[J].人文地理,2008,23(2):12-16.[Zhu Hong, Feng Dan, Wang Bin. Globalization and new trends in cultural geography[J]. Human Geography, 2008,23(2):12-16.]
|
[45] |
Cook I. Geographies of food:Mixing[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2008,32(6):821-833.
|
[46] |
Azar G. Food culture distance:An antecedent to export marketing strategy adaptation-an empirical examination of Swedish and finnish food processing companies[J]. International Food and Agribusiness Management Review, 2011,14(3):17-44.
|
[47] |
Galchenko I, Van De Vijver F J. The role of perceived cultural distance in the acculturation of exchange students in Russia[J]. International Journal of Intercultural Relations, 2006,31(2):181-197.
|
[48] |
Croucher S M. Social networking and cultural adaptation:A theoretical model[J]. Journal of International & Intercultural Communication, 2011,4(4):259-264.
|
[49] |
Liang K, Le Billon P. African migrants in China:Space, race and embodied encounters in Guangzhou, China[J]. Social & Cultural Geography, 2020,21(5):602-628.
|
[50] |
刘彬,阚兴龙,陈忠暖.支持性体验与高峰体验:旅游者饮食消费研究——以成都为例[J].人文地理,2017,32(2):23-29.[Liu Bin, Kan Xinglong, Chen Zhongnuan. Research on the tourist food consumption:A case study of Chengdu[J]. Human Geography, 2017,32(2):23-29.]
|
[51] |
Duncan J S. The super organic in American cultural geography[J]. Annals of the Association of American Geographers, 1980,70(2):181-198.
|
[52] |
唐晓峰,周尚意,李蕾蕾. "超级机制"与文化地理学研究[J].地理研究,2008,27(2):193-200.[Tang Xiaofeng, Zhou Shangyi, Li Leilei. The concept of super-organism in the study of cultural geography[J]. Geographical Research, 2008,27(2):193-200.]
|
[53] |
林俊帆,林耿. 意义、权力与再物质化:食物消费地理新进展[J].人文地理,2014,29(6):40-46.[Lin Junfan, Lin Geng. Meaning, power and rematerializing:Progress in geography of food consumption[J]. Human Geography,2014,29(6):40-46.]
|
[54] |
Godfrey R B B J. Maps of meaning:An introduction to cultural geography[J]. Geographical Review, 1989,80(4):446.
|
[55] |
Farrer J. The Globalization of Asian Cuisines[M]. New York:Palgrave Macmillan, 2015:23-79.
|
[56] |
周尚意,左一鸥,吴倩. KFC在北京城区的空间扩散模型[J].地理学报,2008,63(12):1311-1317.[Zhou Shangyi, Zuo Yi'ou, Wu Qian. A modeling of KFC's spatial diffusion in Beijing city[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2008,63(12):1311-1317.]
|
[57] |
Yan Y X, Watson J L, Caldwell M L. Of Hamburger and Social Space:Consuming McDonald's in Beijing[M]. London:Routledge, 2005:80-103.
|
[58] |
周雯婷,刘云刚.上海古北地区日本人聚居区族裔经济的形成特征[J].地理研究,2015,34(11):2179-2194.[Zhou Wenting, Liu Yungang. Characteristics of the Japanese ethnic economy in the Gubei Japanese enclave of Shanghai city, China[J]. Geographical Research, 2015,34(11):2179-2194.]
|
[59] |
Kong L, Sinha V. Food, Foodways and Foodscapes:Culture, Community and Consumption in Post-Colonial Singapore[M]. Singapore:World Scientific, 2016:207-240.
|
[60] |
Möhring M. Transnational food migration and the internalization of food consumption:Ethnic cuisine in West Germany[J]. Food and Globalization:Consumption, Markets and Politics in the Modern World, 2008,1(1):129-150.
|
[61] |
Allison S P. Holes-in-the-Wall? Mobility through Individually Owned Foreign Restaurants in Suzhou, China[D]. San Diego:San Diego State University, 2014:78-81.
|
[62] |
Freedman I. Cultural specificity in food choice-the case of ethnography in Japan[J]. Appetite, 2016,96:138-146.
|
[63] |
Tookes J S. "The food represents":Barbadian foodways in the diaspora[J]. Appetite, 2015,90:65-73.
|
[64] |
曾国军,王龙杰.可持续饮食系统的研究进展与理论框架[J].地理研究,2019,38(8):2068-2084.[Zeng Guojun, Wang Longjie. Sustainable food system:Review and research framework[J]. Geographical Research, 2019,38(8):2068-2084.]
|
[65] |
刘云刚,谭宇文,周雯婷. 广州日本移民的生活活动与生活空间[J]. 地理学报,2010,65(10):1173-1186.[Liu Yungang, Tan Yuwen, Zhou Wenting. Japanese expatriates in Guangzhou city:The activity and living space[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2010,65(10):1173-1186.]
|
[66] |
Ma E, Bodomo A. We are what we eat:Food in the process of community formation and identity shaping among African traders in Guangzhou and Yiwu[J]. African Diaspora, 2012,5(1):3-26.
|
[67] |
Phillips L. Food and globalization[J]. Annual Review of Anthropology, 2006,35:37-57.
|
[68] |
Mak A H N, Lumbers M, Eves A. Globalisation and food consumption in tourism[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2012,39(1):171-196.
|
[69] |
孙九霞,周尚意,王宁. 跨学科聚焦的新领域:流动的时间, 空间与社会[J].地理研究,2016,35(10):5-22.[Sun Jiuxia, Zhou Shangyi, Wang Ning. Mobility in geographical research:Time, space and society[J]. Geographical Research, 2016,35(10):5-22.]
|
[70] |
Conradson D, Mckay D. Translocal subjectivities:Mobility, connection, emotion[J]. Mobilities, 2007,2(2):167-174.
|
[71] |
Cresswell T. Geographic Thought:A Critical Introduction[M]. New York:John Wiley & Sons, 2012:37-39.
|
[72] |
Sheller M, Urry J. Mobilizing the new mobilities paradigm[J]. Applied Mobilities, 2016,1(1):10-25.
|
[73] |
Appadurai A. How to make a national cuisine:Cookbooks in contemporary India[J]. Comparative Studies in Society & History, 1988,30(1):3-24.
|
[74] |
Vallianatos H, Raine K. Consuming food and constructing identities among Arabic and South Asian immigrant women[J]. Food, Culture & Society, 2015,11(3):355-373.
|
[75] |
Zafar. The signifying dish:Autobiography and history in two black women's cookbooks[J]. Feminist Studies, 1999,25(2):449-469.
|
[76] |
Bardhi F, Ostberg J, Bengtsson A. Negotiating cultural boundaries:Food, travel and consumer identities[J]. Consumption Markets & Culture, 2010,13(2):133-157.
|
[77] |
Tuomainen H M. Ethnic identity, (post)colonialism and foodways:Ghanaians in London[J]. Food Culture & Society, 2009,12(4):525-554.
|
[78] |
Wu D Y H, Tan C B. Changing Chinese Foodways in Asia[M]. Hong Kong:Chinese University Press, 2001:55-70.
|
[79] |
Heldke L M. Exotic Appetites:Ruminations of a Food Adventurer[M]. Cambridge:Hypatia, 2003:9-45.
|
[80] |
Bost S. Women and Chile at the Alamo:Feeding U.S. colonial mythology[J]. Nepantla:Views from South, 2003,4(3):493-522.
|
[81] |
Coe A. Chop Suey:A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States[M]. Oxford:Oxford University Press, 2009:193-200.
|
[82] |
王敏,江荣灏,朱竑.新文化地理学中的非表征与再物质化研究进展[J].地理科学进展,2019,38(2):3-13.[Wang Min, Jiang Ronghao, Zhu Hong. "Non-representational", "re-materializing" and the research methods of new cultural geography[J]. Progress in Geography, 2019,38(2):3-13.]
|
[83] |
Jackson, Peter. Rematerializing social and cultural geography[J]. Social & Cultural Geography, 2000,1(1):9-14.
|
[84] |
钱俊希,钱丽芸,朱竑. "全球的地方感"理论述评与广州案例解读[J].人文地理,2011(6):46-50.[Qian Junxi, Qian Liyun, Zhu Hong. A global sense of place:Theoretical framework and a case study of Guangzhou[J]. Human Geography, 2011(6):46-50.]
|
[85] |
Massey D. Space, Place and Gender[M]. New York:John Wiley & Sons, 2013:117-135.
|
[86] |
Massey D. A Global Sense of Place[M]. London:Routledge, 2008:213-237.
|
[87] |
李志刚,杜枫.中国大城市的外国人"族裔经济区"研究——对广州"巧克力城"的实证[J].人文地理,2012,27(6):1-6.[Li Zhigang, Du Feng. The transnational making of "chocolate city" in Guangzhou[J]. Human Geography, 2012,27(6):1-6.]
|
[88] |
Park K. Ethnic foodscapes:Foreign cuisines in the United States[J]. Food Culture & Society, 2017,20(3):365-393.
|
|
|
|