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| LOCAL FOOD BEYOND GEOGRAPHICAL BOUNDARIES:THE EVERYDAY FOOD PRACTICES OF MIGRANTS IN GUANGZHOU |
| ZHONG Shu-ru, WANG Long-jie, ZENG Guo-jun |
| School of Tourism Management, Sun Yat-sen University, Guangzhou 510275, China |
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Abstract Local food, originally defined as food produced within clear geographical boundaries, is a powerful weapon for "locals" to resist extreme commodification of the food system, but a geographically bordercentered perspective suppresses the active role of the consumer's body and ignores the local dietary experience of immigrants as "outsiders". This study uses in-depth interviews and co-cooking methods to examine the daily food consumption of immigrant groups in Guangzhou. It finds that immigrants actively assign rich local connotations to their hometown food and local food in Guangzhou that cross geographical boundaries, constructing a "mobile localness" in their daily diet. The localness of hometown food is constructed by the long-term trust between immigrants and the food providers in their hometown. Hometown food alleviated nostalgia, promoted social integration, and formed a short supply chain with direct contact between producers and consumers. Certain food produced and sold in Guangzhou is also endowed with localness based on the physical sentiments of immigrants. The localness of food is not an a priori property, but a process reality that can be constituted through eating and integrating the body into the place. In this process, the value of external attributes such as the geographical boundaries of production is diluted, while the materiality felt by the body is strengthened. In short, in contrast to the rebellious local food movement, immigrants embed local food into their local lives, highlighting multiple daily meanings, mainly in breaking through food knowledge fix, alleviating food anxiety, and enhancing the intimate relationship between body and place.
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Received: 08 February 2021
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2022, Vol. 37 
