EATING IN A FOREIGN LAND:EXPERIENCING EXTREME FOODS IN TOURISM
SHI Yan-rong1,2, XIE Yan-jun1,2, ZENG Shi-qing1,2
1. School of Tourism, Hainan University, Haikou 570228, China;
2. Tourism Experience Research & Design Center of Hainan University, Haikou 570228, China
Abstract:As a basic physiological need, diet is an indispensable part of daily life. With the gradual development of society toward abundance, food is undergoing a process of ongoing socialization with respect to daily living. Accordingly, it is necessary to examine special manifestations of individual diet in the tourism industry. Through speculative research, the present studied investigated the tourist experience of extreme, exotic foods; it also assessed related issues from the dual perspectives of daily living and tourism. This study produced a number of conclusions. First, compared with daily dietary activities, the food consumption behavior of tourists features experiential characteristics, which involve an alienation function and a polarization tendency. Functional alienation is mainly manifested in the landscape association and aestheticization of food production and consumption. Second, the internal driving force behind functional alienation with respect to food in the tourism industry is the binary opposition between tourism and daily living. Third, owing to that binary opposition, tourists have to deal with four obstacles when experiencing extreme foods:Physical, psychological, knowledgeable and technical, and social; the items are in decreasing order of problems for the tourist. The degree of separation or similarity between the eating situation and the place perceived by tourists affects the difficulty in surmounting those obstacles. Fourth, local food production and global food consumption achieve a coexistence of opposites in tourism. Finally, this study incorporates these theoretical underpinnings into a unified theoretical framework for tourism situation theory.
Beer S. Authenticity and food experience-commercial and academic perspectives[J]. Journal of Foodservice, 2008,19(3):153-163.
[2]
Fischler C. Food, self and identity[J]. Social Science Information, 1988,27(2):275-292.
[3]
彭兆荣.饮食人类学[M].北京:北京大学出版社,2013:76-89.[Peng Zhaorong. The Anthropology of Food[M]. Beijing:Peking University Press, 2013:76-89.]
[4]
Sormaz U, Akmese H, Gunes E, et al. Gastronomy in Tourism[J]. Procedia Economics and Finance, 2016,39:725-730.
[5]
蔡晓梅,刘晨.人文地理学视角下的国外饮食文化研究进展[J].人文地理,2013,28(5):36-41.[Cai Xiaomei, Liu Chen. Progress in the foreign geographical food studies[J]. Human Geography, 2013, 28(5):36-41.]
[6]
Mak A H N, Lumbers M, Eves A. Globalisation and food consumption in tourism[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2012,39(1):171-196.
[7]
谢彦君.旅游体验研究——一种现象学视角的探讨[D].东北财经大学,2005.[Xie Yanjun. Research on Tourism Experience:A Aphenomenol Ogical Perspective[D]. Dongbei University of Finance & Economics, 2005:10-51.]
[8]
西敏司.甜与权力:糖在近代历史上的地位[M].王超,朱建刚,译.北京:商务印书馆,2010:15-30.[Sidney W. Sweetness and Power:The Place of Sugar in Modern History[M]. Wang Chao, Zhu Jiangang, Trans. Beijing:The Commercial Press, 2010:15-30.]
[9]
李登年.中国宴席史略[M].北京:中国书籍出版社,2016.[Li Dengnian. A Brief History of Chinese Banquets[M]. Beijing:China Book Publishing House, 2016:31-56.]
[10]
兰德尔·柯林斯.互动仪式链[M].林聚任,王鹏,宋丽君,译.北京:商务印书馆,2012:46.[Collins R. Interaction Ritual Chains[M]. Lin Juren, Wang Peng, Song Lijun, trans. Beijing:The Commercial Press, 2012:46.]
[11]
陈传康. 中国饮食文化的区域分化和发展趋势[J]. 地理学报, 1994(3):226-235.[Chen Chuankang. The culture of Chinese diet:Regional differentiation and developing trends[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 1994(3):226-235.]
[12]
李坚诚.全球化-地方性背景下的饮食文化生产:潮菜原料时空特征[J].热带地理,2017,37(4):562-568.[Li Jiancheng. Catering cultural production under the background of globalization and locality:Spatial-temporal characteristics of Teochew cuisine ingredients[J]. Tropical Geography, 2017,37(4):562-568.]
[13]
林俊帆,林耿.意义、权力与再物质化:食物消费地理新进展[J].人文地理,2014,29(6):40-46.[Lin Junfan, Lin Geng. Meaning, power and rematerializing:Progress in geography of food consumption[J]. Human Geography, 2014,29(6):40-46.]
[14]
彭兆荣,肖坤冰.饮食人类学研究述评[J].世界民族,2011(3):48-56.[Peng Zhaorong, Xiao Kunbing. A review of studies on food anthropology[J]. Journal of World Peoples Studies, 2011(3):48-56.]
[15]
王灵恩,王磊,钟林生,等.国内外旅游食物消费研究综述[J].地理科学进展,2017,36(4):513-526.[Wang Lingen, Wang Lei, Zhong Linsheng, et al. A literature research on tourism food consumption[J]. Progress in Geography, 2017,36(4):513-526.]
[16]
Björk P, Kauppinen-Räisänen H. Destination foodscape:A stage for travelers' food experience[J]. Tourism Management, 2019,71:466- 475.
[17]
王斯.味道:关于食物的地方性知识[J].自然辩证法研究,2018, 34(4):102- 107.[Wang Si. Taste:On local knowledge of food[J]. Studies in Dialectics of Nature, 2018,34(4):102-107.]
[18]
Ellis A, Park E, Kim S, et al. What is food tourism?[J]. Tourism Management, 2018, 68:250-263.
[19]
Montanari A. Geography of taste and local development in Abruzzo (Italy):Project to establish a training and research centre for the promotion of enogastronomic culture and tourism[J]. Journal of Heritage Tourism, 2009,4(2):91-103.
[20]
孙九霞,吴传龙,凌玲.旅游地特色饮食的地方化:丽江三文鱼的生产与消费[J].南开管理评论,2018,21(2):182-191.[Sun Jiuxia, Wu Chuanlong, Ling Ling. The taste of place:Taking Lijiang salmon as an example to analyze the localization of special food in tourism destination[J]. Nankai Business Review, 2018,21(2):182-191.]
[21]
徐赣丽. 城市化背景下民俗学的"时空转向":从民间文化到大众文化[J].学术月刊,2016,48(1):117-126.[Xu Ganli. A spatial turn of folklore in the background of urbanization:From folk culture to mass culture[J]. Academic Monthly, 2016,48(1):117-126.]
[22]
Torres R. Toward a better understanding of tourism and agriculture linkages in the Yucatan:Tourist food consumption and preferences[J]. Tourism Geographies, 2002,4(3):282-306.
[23]
Hall; M, Mitchell R:Tourism as a force for gastronomic globalization and localization, Hjalager; A-M, Richards G, editor, Tourism and Gastronomy, London:Routledge, 2002:71-87.
[24]
谢彦君.呵护"姆庇之家",重塑乡村旅游可持续发展新理念[J].旅游 学刊,2017,32(1):8- 10.[Xie Yanjun. Caring for the "House of Muubi" and reshaping the new concept of sustainable development of rural tourism[J]. Tourism Tribune, 2017,32(1):8-10.]
[25]
王宁.流动的消费本土性:劳动力迁移中的文化随迁——以本土性饮食文化的跨境流动为例[J].山东社会科学,2015(10):27-34.[Wang Ning. The locality of mobile consumption:Cultural migration in labor migration:Taking the cross-border migration of local food culture as an example[J]. Shandong Social Sciences, 2015(10):27-34.]
[26]
谢彦君,孙佼佼.黑色愉悦的受虐来源:游戏场中的反结构喜剧[J]. 旅游导刊,2018,2(5):19-36.[Xie Yanjun, Sun Jiaojiao. How does insult give pleasure:The anti- structure comedy in the game field[J]. Tourism and Hospitality Prospects, 2018,2(5):19-36.]
[27]
Ratcliffe E, Baxter W L, Martin N. Consumption rituals relating to food and drink:A review and research agenda[J]. Appetite, 2019, 134:86-93.
[28]
Everett S. Beyond the visual gaze?:The pursuit of an embodied experience through food tourism[J]. Tourist Studies, 2008,8(3):337- 358.
[29]
谢彦君,胡迎春,王丹平.工业旅游具身体验模型:具身障碍、障碍移除和具身实现[J].旅游科学,2018,32(4):1-16.[Xie Yanjun, Hu Yingchun, Wang Danping. The embodied experience model of industrial tourism:Embodied obstacles, obstacles remove and embodied realization[J]. Tourism Science, 2018,32(4):1-16.]
[30]
Quan S, Wang N. Towards a structural model of the tourist experience:An illustration from food experiences in tourism[J]. Tourism Management, 2004,25(3):297-305.
[31]
Yüksel A, Yüksel F. Measurement of tourist satisfaction with restaurant services:A segment- based approach[J]. Journal of Vacation Marketing, 2002,9(1):52-68.
[32]
Kotler P. Atmospherics as a marketing tool[J]. Journal of Retailing, 1973,49(4):48-64.
[33]
Kim Y G, Eves A, Scarles C. Building a model of local food consumption on trips and holidays:A grounded theory approach[J]. International Journal of Hospitality Management, 2009,28(3):423- 431.
[34]
Fields K. Demand for the Gastronomy Tourism Product:Motiva-tional Factors[M]//Hjalager A M, Richards G. Tourism and Gastronomy, London:Routledge, 2002:36-50.
[35]
Matson- Barkat S, Robert- Demontrond P. Who's on the tourists' menu? Exploring the social significance of restaurant experiences for tourists[J]. Tourism Management, 2018,69:566-578.
[36]
余习德,张小娟,鲁成,等.声音影响饮食行为:实证进展与理论构思[J].心理科学进展,2017,25(6):955-969.[Yu Xide, Zhang Xiaojuan, Lu Cheng, et al. Sound influence eating or drinking behavior:Empirical progress and theoretical ideas[J]. Advances in Psychological Science, 2017,25(6):955-969.]
[37]
Cohen E, Avieli N. Food in tourism[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2004,31(4):755-778.
[38]
Hillel D, Belhassen Y, Shani A. What makes a gastronomic destination attractive? Evidence from the Israeli Negev[J]. Tourism Management, 2013,36:200-209.
[39]
Woolf E, Zhu Z Y, Emory K, et al. Willingness to consume insectcontaining foods:A survey in the United States[J]. LWT-Food Science and Technology, 2018,102:100-105.
[40]
Csikszentmihalyi M, Lefevre J. Optimal experience in work and leisure[J]. Journal of Personality and Social Psychology, 1989,56(5):815-822.
[41]
Finneran C M, Ping Z. A person-artefact-task (PAT) model of flow antecedents in computer- mediated environments[J]. International Journal of Human-Computer Studies, 2003,59(4):475-496.
[42]
Bearth A, Siegrist M. Are risk or benefit perceptions more important for public acceptance of innovative food technologies:A metaanalysis[J]. Trends in Food Science & Technology, 2016,49:14-23.
[43]
Sato P M, Gittelsohn J, Unsain R F, et al. The use of Pierre Bourdieu's distinction concepts in scientific articles studying food and eating:A narrative review[J]. Appetite, 2016,96:174-186.
[44]
Furnham A. Tourism and culture shock[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 1984,11(1):41-57.
[45]
Kracke W:Culture Shock, Smelser J N, Baltes P B, editor, International Encyclopedia of the Social & Behavioral Sciences, Oxford:Pergamon, 2001:3176-3179.
[46]
Vohs K D, Wang Y J`, Gino F, et al. Rituals enhance consumption[J]. Psychological Science, 2013,24(9):1714-1721.