流动性视角下中国流行菜系的空间扩散格局及其文化地理逻辑

曾国军; 李忠奇; 陈铮; 周尚意

doi:10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.003

PDF(26389 KB)

人文地理 ›› 2022, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (4) : 22-31,45. DOI: 10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.003

饮食文化地理专栏

流动性视角下中国流行菜系的空间扩散格局及其文化地理逻辑

曾国军¹, 李忠奇¹, 陈铮¹, 周尚意²

作者信息 +

SPATIAL DIFFUSION PATTERN AND CULTURAL GEOGRAPHY LOGIC OF CHINESE POPULAR CUISINE FROM THE PERSPECTIVE OF MOBILITY

ZENG Guo-jun¹, LI Zhong-qi¹, CHEN Zheng¹, ZHOU Shang-yi²

Author information +

文章历史 +

摘要

流动性的增强不但意味着人口、信息、资金流动强度增加，也意味着流动范围的扩大。在此背景下，以稳定的人口构成为基础的传统地域饮食文化区的边界也开始发生变化。同时，流动性也使多元地方饮食文化在空间扩散的基础上展开了互动与交融。本研究将除港澳台地区以外的中国全域作为研究区域，基于海量餐饮服务设施POI数据，运用核密度分析方法分析中国目前的流行菜系空间扩散格局并描述其特征，并从流动性视角阐释其形成与扩散的文化地理逻辑。研究发现，中国现流行的菜系主要包括川菜、湘菜、粤菜、东北菜、徽菜、云贵菜、西北菜、鲁菜；中国流行菜系的空间扩散格局具有差异明显、多中心发展的特点。其中，川菜、湘菜、粤菜数量多分布广；鲁菜、徽菜分布集中，扩散较少；东北菜、云贵菜、西北菜数量较少但分布范围广。这种流行菜系空间扩散格局背后的文化地理逻辑与流动性密不可分，人口、资金等的流动促使地方饮食文化在空间内扩散，同时也带来了地方饮食文化间的交融互构。

Abstract

The increas of mobility means not only an increase in the intensity of population, information and capital flow, but also an increase in the range of mobility. In this context, the boundaries of traditional regional food culture areas based on stable demographic composition also begin to change. At the same time, mobility also enables the interaction and intermingling of multiple local food cultures on the basis of spatial diffusion. In this study, the whole region of China's mainland is taken as the research area. Based on a large amount of food service facility POI data, this study analyzes the spatial distribution characteristics of the popular cuisines in China using the kernel density analysis method and explains the cultural geography logic of their formation and diffusion from the mobility perspective. It is found that the popular cuisines in China mainly include Sichuan cuisine, Hunan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, Dongbei cuisine, Anhui cuisine, Yungui cuisine, Xibei cuisine and Shandong cuisine; The spatial distribution of the popular cuisines in China is characterized by obvious differences and polycentric development. Among them, Sichuan cuisine, Hunan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine are widely distributed and numerous; Shandong cuisine and Anhui cuisine are numerous but less distributed; Dongbei cuisine, Yungui cuisine and Xibei cuisine are widely distributed but rare in number.

关键词

流行菜系 / 空间扩散格局 / 饮食地理 / 流动性

Key words

引用本文

EndNote

Ris (Procite)

Bibtex

导出引用

曾国军, 李忠奇, 陈铮, 周尚意. 流动性视角下中国流行菜系的空间扩散格局及其文化地理逻辑[J]. 人文地理. 2022, 37(4): 22-31,45 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.003

ZENG Guo-jun, LI Zhong-qi, CHEN Zheng, ZHOU Shang-yi. SPATIAL DIFFUSION PATTERN AND CULTURAL GEOGRAPHY LOGIC OF CHINESE POPULAR CUISINE FROM THE PERSPECTIVE OF MOBILITY[J]. HUMAN GEOGRAPHY. 2022, 37(4): 22-31,45 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.003

中图分类号： K901.6

参考文献

[1] Urry J. Sociology Beyond Societies: Mobilities for the Twenty-First Century[M]. London: Routledge, 2000:49-76．
[2] 孙九霞.旅游流动影响下的民族交融与认同凝聚：对“多元一体格局” 的再思考[J].中央民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版),2020,47(5): 75-86. [Sun Jiuxia. Ethnic integration and identity cohesion under the influence of tourism flow: Rethinking on the "pattern of diversity in unity"[J]. Journal of Minzu University of China (Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition), 2020,47(5):75-86.]
[3] 艾少伟,乔增轩,李江苏.城市民族餐馆空间分布的区位选择及文化邻近性[J].人文地理,2020,35(3):76-85. [Ai Shaowei, Qiao Zengxuan, Li Jiangsu. Location selection and cultural proximity of spatial distribution of urban ethnic restaurants[J]. Human Geography, 2020,35(3):76-85.]
[4] 马斌斌,陈兴鹏,陈芳婷,等.中华老字号企业空间分异及影响因素研究[J].地理研究,2020,39(10):2313-2329. [Ma Binbin, Chen Xingpeng, Chen Fangting, et al. Spatial differentiation and influencing factors of China time- honored brand[J]. Geographical Research, 2020,39(10):2313-2329.]
[5] 李坚诚.全球化—地方性背景下的饮食文化生产：潮菜原料时空特征[J].热带地理,2017,37(4):562-568. [Li Jiancheng. Catering cultural production under the background of globalization and locality: Spatial- temporal characteristics of Teochew cuisine ingredients[J]. Tropical Geography, 2017,37(4):562-568.]
[6] Kong L, Sinha V. Food, Foodways and Foodscapes: Culture, Community and Consumption in Post- colonial Singapore[M]. Singapore: World Scientific, 2015:61-184.
[7] Parasecoli F. Food, identity, and cultural reproduction in immigrant communities[J]. Social Research, 2014,81(2):415-439.
[8] 蔡晓梅,刘晨.人文地理学视角下的国外饮食文化研究进展[J].人文地理,2013,28(5):36-41. [Cai Xiaomei, Liu Chen. Progress in the foreign geographical food studies[J]. Human Geography, 2013, 28(5):36-41.]
[9] Tookes J S. "The food represents": Barbadian foodways in the diaspora[J]. Appetite, 2015,90(7):65-73.
[10] Collins F L. Of kimchi and coffee: Globalization, transnationalism and familiarity in culinary consumption[J]. Social & Cultural Geography, 2008,9(2):151-169.
[11] 令狐萍.芝加哥华人： 19世纪70年代至20世纪30年代的跨国移民与商业活动[J].华侨华人历史研究,2013,28(3):1-18. [Ling Huping. Chicago Chinese: Transnational migration and entrepreneurship during the 1870s and 1930s[J]. Journal of Overseas Chinese History Studies, 2013,28(3):1-18.]
[12] Freedman I. Cultural specificity in food choice: The case of ethnography in Japan[J]. Appetite, 2016,96(1):138-146.
[13] 蔡晓梅,司徒尚纪.中国地理学视角的饮食文化研究回顾与展望[J]. 云南地理环境研究, 2006,18(5):83- 88. [Cai Xiaomei, Situ Shangji. A review on the studies of food culture from geographical perspective[J]. Yunnan Geographic Environment Research, 2006, 18(5):83-88.]
[14] 陈传康.中国饮食文化的区域分化和发展趋势[J].地理学报,1994, 61(3):226-235. [Chen Chuankang. Regional differentiation and development trend of Chinese food culture[J]. Acta Geographica Sinice, 1994,61(3):226-235.]
[15] 苏英春,陈忠暖.论地理环境对潮汕饮食文化的影响[J].云南地理环境研究,2004,16(4):61-64. [Su Yingchun, Chen Zhongnuan. On the influence of geographical environment on the diet culture of Chaoshan[J]. Yunnan Geographic Environment Research, 2004, 16(4):61-64.]
[16] 顾秋实,张海平,周星星,等.中国传统八大菜系的地理分布及其扩散效应——基于大数据视角的实证分析[J].浙江学刊,2019,57(5): 47-53,241-244. [Gu Qiushi, Zhang Haiping, Zhou Xingxing, et al. Geographical distribution and diffusion effect of eight traditional Chinese cuisine: An empirical analysis based on data perspection [J]. Zhejiang Academic Journal, 2019,57(5):47-53,241-244.]
[17] 甄峰,王波“ . 大数据” 热潮下人文地理学研究的再思考[J].地理研究,2015,34(5):803-811. [Zhen Feng, Wang Bo. Rethinking human geography in the age of big data[J]. Geographical Research, 2015, 34(5):803-811.]
[18] 涂建军,唐思琪,张骞,等.山地城市格局对餐饮业区位选择影响的空间异质性[J].地理学报,2019,74(6):1163-1177. [Tu Jianjun, Tang Siqi, Zhang Qian, et al. Spatial heterogeneity of the effects of mountainous city patternon catering industry location[J]. Acta Geographica Sinice, 2019,74(6):1163-1177.]
[19] 曾璇,崔海山,刘志根.广州市餐饮店分布演变特征与影响因素[J]. 经济地理,2019,39(3):143-151. [Zeng Xuan, Cui Haishan, Liu Zhigen. Spatial and temporal evolution characteristics and influencing factors of restaurants in Guangzhou[J]. Economic Geography, 2019, 39(3):143-151.]
[20] 张景奇,史文宝,修春亮.POI数据在中国城市研究中的应用[J].地理科学,2021,41(1):140-148. [Zhang Jingqi, Shi Wenbao, Xiu Chunliang. Urban research using points of interest data in China[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2021,41(1):140-148.]
[21] 黄怡敏,邵世维,雷英哲,等.运用网络核密度估计与克里格插值识别城市功能区[J].测绘地理信息,2019,44(4):14-18. [Huang Yimin, Shao Shiwei, Lei Yingzhe, et al. Idengtification of urban functional zones using network kernel density estimation and kriging interpolation[J]. Journal of Geomatics, 2019,44(4):14-18.]
[22] 李莹,涂志德,刘艳芳,等.基于时间序列相似度的城市功能区识别研究[J].地理空间信息, 2021,19(1):22-29,47. [Li Ying, Tu Zhide, Liu Yanfang, et al. Urban functional area identification based on similarity of time series[J]. Geospatial Information, 2021,19(1):22- 29,47.]
[23] 高岩辉,杨晴青,梁璐,等.基于POI数据的西安市零售业空间格局及影响因素研究[J].地理科学,2020,40(5):710-719. [Gao Yanhui, Yang Qingqing, Liang Lu, et al. Spatial pattern and influencing factors of retailing industries in Xi'an based on POI data[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2020,40(5):710-719.]
[24] 唐锦玥,何益珺,塔娜.基于POI数据的上海市餐饮业空间分布特征及影响因素[J].热带地理,2020,40(6):1015-1025. [Tang Jinyue, He Yijun, Ta Na. Spatial distribution patterns and factors influencing the Shanghai catering industry based on POI data[J]. Tropical Geography, 2020,40(6):1015-1025.]
[25] 张海平,周星星,汤国安,等.基于GIS场模型的城市餐饮服务热点探测及空间格局分析[J].地理研究,2020,39(2):354-369. [Zhang Haiping, Zhou Xingxing, Tang Guoan, et al. Hotspot discovery and its spatial pattern analysis for catering service in cities based on field model in GIS[J]. Geographical Research, 2020,39(2):354- 369.]
[26] 蔡晓梅,司徒尚纪.广东饮食文化形成与发展的机理研究[J].岭南文史,2007,25(4):54-59. [Cai Xiaomei, Situ Shangji. Study on the formation and development mechanism of Guangdong food culture [J]. Lingnan Culture and History, 2007,25(4):54-59.]
[27] 曾国军,刘梅.饮食地理与跨地方饮食文化生产[J].旅游学刊,2013, 28(3):9-11. [Zeng Guojun, Liu Mei. Food geography and translocal cultural production of food[J]. Tourism Tribune, 2013,28(3):9-11.]
[28] 曾国军,李凌,刘博,等.跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑—— 西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究[J].地理学报,2014,69(12):1871- 1886. [Zeng Guojun, Li Ling, Liu Bo, et al. Reconstructed authenticity in translocal cultural production of food: A case study of northwest China cuisine in Guangdong[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2014,69(12):1871-1886.]
[29] 曾国军,孙树芝,朱竑,等.全球化与地方性冲突背后的跨地方饮食文化生产——基于广州的案例[J].地理科学,2013,33(3):291-298. [Zeng Guojun, Sun Shuzhi, Zhu Hong, et al. Translocal restaurants' cultural production under the paradox of globalization and locality: Case studies from Guangzhou[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2013,33(3):291-298.]
[30] 蔡晓梅,刘晨,曾国军.社交媒体对广州饮食文化空间的建构与重塑[J]. 人文地理,2013,28(6):1- 8. [Cai Xiaomei, Liu Chen, Zeng Guojun. The construction and re-construction of food cultural spaces in Guangzhou by the social media[J]. Human Geography, 2013, 28(6):1-8.]
[31] Castells M. The Rise of the Network Society[M]. New Jersey: Wiley-Blackwell, 2010:28-338.
[32] 蔡晓梅,卜美玲,李军.以流动看世界——基于彼得·阿迪《流动性》的研究述评[J].热带地理,2020,40(3):455-465. [Cai Xiaomei, Bu Meiling, Li Jun. See the world from a mobile perspective: A review on "mobility" edited by Peter Adey[J]. Tropical Geography, 2020, 40(3):455-465.]
[33] 孙九霞,周尚意,王宁,等.跨学科聚焦的新领域：流动的时间、空间与社会[J].地理研究,2016,35(10):1801-1818. [Sun Jiuxia, Zhou Shangyi, Wang Ning, et al. Mobility in geographical research: Time, space and society[J]. Geographical Research, 2016,35(10): 1801-1818.]
[34] 唐雪琼,杨茜好,钱俊希.流动性视角下边界的空间实践及其意义——以云南省河口县中越边境地区X村为例[J].地理研究,2016, 35(8):1535-1546. [Tang Xueqiong, Yang Xihao, Qian Junxi. Meanings and practices of borders from the perspective of cross-border mobility: A case study of village X, Hekou, Yunnan at the SinoVietnamese borderlands[J]. Geographical Research, 2016,35(8): 1535-1546.]
[35] 段成荣,吕利丹,王涵,等.从乡土中国到迁徙中国：再论中国人口迁移转变[J].人口研究,2020,44(1):19-25. [Duan Chengrong, Lv Lidan, Wang Han, et al. From rural China to migrating China: Rethinking migration transition in China[J]. Population Research, 2020,44(1):19-25.]
[36] 王桂新,潘泽瀚,陆燕秋.中国省际人口迁移区域模式变化及其影响因素——基于2000和2010年人口普查资料的分析[J].中国人口科学,2012,26(5):2- 13. [Wang Guixin, Pan Zehan, Lu Yanqiu. China's inter-provincial migration patterns and influential factors: Evidence from Year 2000 and 2010 population census of China[J]. Chinese Journal of Population Science, 2012,26(5):2-13.]
[37] 张红雨,万贤,陈妍,等.相变蓄冷材料在冷链物流中的研究进展[J]. 中国塑料,2021,35(4):106- 115. [Zhang Hongyu, Wan Xian, Chen Yan, et al. Research progress in phase change cold-storage materials in cold chain logistics[J]. China Plastics, 2021,35(4):106-115.]
[38] 刑颖,黎素梅,于干千.餐饮产业蓝皮书：中国餐饮产业发展报告(2019)[M].北京:社会科学文献出版社,2019:65-112. [Xing Ying, Li Sumei, Yu Ganqian. Annual Report on Catering Industry Development of China (2019) [M]. Beijing: Social Sciences Academic Press, 2019:65-112.]
[39] 姚可桢,岳书平.网络大数据下的中国现代食甜习惯空间分布特征及其影响因素研究[J].地球信息科学学报,2020,22(6):1202- 1215. [Yao Kezhen, Yue Shuping. Study on spatial distribution of modern sweet diet and its impact factors in China based on big data from internet[J]. Journal of Geo- information Science, 2020,22(6): 1202-1215.]
[40] 赵荣光.中国饮食文化概论[M].北京:高等教育出版社,2008:39- 74. [Zhao Rongguang. Introduction to Chinese Food Culture[M]. Beijing: Higher Education Press, 2003:39-74.]
[41] 罗秋菊,丁绍莲,潘珂.外来饮食文化影响下广州本地居民地方身份建构过程的代际差异[J].地理研究,2018,37(9):1762-1774. [Luo Qiuju, Ding Shaolian, Pan Ke. Generational differences in the influence of exotic gastronomic culture on local residents' place identity in Guangzhou[J]. Geographical Research, 2018,37(9):1762-1774.]
[42] 王宁.流动的消费本土性：劳动力迁移中的文化随迁——以本土性饮食文化的跨境流动为例[J].山东社会科学,2015,29(10):27- 34. [Wang Ning. The localization of mobile consumption: The cultural mobility in the migration of labor force: A case study of the cross-border movement of localism food culture[J]. Shandong Social Sciences, 2015,29(10):27-34.]
[43] Bourdieu P, Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste [M]. Nice R, trans. London: Routledge, 1984:468-500.