跨越地理边界的地方性食物&mdash;&mdash;以广州流动群体的饮食消费为例

钟淑如; 王龙杰; 曾国军

doi:10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.005

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人文地理 ›› 2022, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (4) : 39-45. DOI: 10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.005

饮食文化地理专栏

跨越地理边界的地方性食物——以广州流动群体的饮食消费为例

钟淑如, 王龙杰, 曾国军

作者信息 +

LOCAL FOOD BEYOND GEOGRAPHICAL BOUNDARIES:THE EVERYDAY FOOD PRACTICES OF MIGRANTS IN GUANGZHOU

ZHONG Shu-ru, WANG Long-jie, ZENG Guo-jun

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文章历史 +

摘要

地方性食物原本被定义成在清晰的地理边界内生产的食物，是“本地人”抵抗极端商品化食物系统的有力武器，但以地理边界为中心的视角压抑了消费者身体的积极作用，也忽视了作为“外来者”的流动群体的在地饮食体验。基于对广州流动群体的日常饮食消费的深入考察，本研究发现：流动群体对跨越地理边界的故乡食物和广州本地食物主动赋予丰富的地方性意涵，构筑日常饮食“流动的地方性”。基于身体与食物的关系视角，本研究认为身体接触食物的契合感受以及与食物提供者的信任关系奠定了流动群体建构地方性食物的基本途径。区别于反抗式的地方性食物运动，流动群体把地方性食物嵌入在地生活，凸显多重的日常意义，主要表现在突破食物知识困境，缓解饮食焦虑，以及增进身体和地方的亲密关系。

Abstract

Local food, originally defined as food produced within clear geographical boundaries, is a powerful weapon for "locals" to resist extreme commodification of the food system, but a geographically bordercentered perspective suppresses the active role of the consumer's body and ignores the local dietary experience of immigrants as "outsiders". This study uses in-depth interviews and co-cooking methods to examine the daily food consumption of immigrant groups in Guangzhou. It finds that immigrants actively assign rich local connotations to their hometown food and local food in Guangzhou that cross geographical boundaries, constructing a "mobile localness" in their daily diet. The localness of hometown food is constructed by the long-term trust between immigrants and the food providers in their hometown. Hometown food alleviated nostalgia, promoted social integration, and formed a short supply chain with direct contact between producers and consumers. Certain food produced and sold in Guangzhou is also endowed with localness based on the physical sentiments of immigrants. The localness of food is not an a priori property, but a process reality that can be constituted through eating and integrating the body into the place. In this process, the value of external attributes such as the geographical boundaries of production is diluted, while the materiality felt by the body is strengthened. In short, in contrast to the rebellious local food movement, immigrants embed local food into their local lives, highlighting multiple daily meanings, mainly in breaking through food knowledge fix, alleviating food anxiety, and enhancing the intimate relationship between body and place.

导出引用

钟淑如, 王龙杰, 曾国军. 跨越地理边界的地方性食物——以广州流动群体的饮食消费为例[J]. 人文地理. 2022, 37(4): 39-45 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.005

ZHONG Shu-ru, WANG Long-jie, ZENG Guo-jun. LOCAL FOOD BEYOND GEOGRAPHICAL BOUNDARIES:THE EVERYDAY FOOD PRACTICES OF MIGRANTS IN GUANGZHOU[J]. HUMAN GEOGRAPHY. 2022, 37(4): 39-45 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2022.04.005

中图分类号： K901

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