Abstract：Local food, originally defined as food produced within clear geographical boundaries, is a powerful weapon for "locals" to resist extreme commodification of the food system, but a geographically bordercentered perspective suppresses the active role of the consumer's body and ignores the local dietary experience of immigrants as "outsiders". This study uses in-depth interviews and co-cooking methods to examine the daily food consumption of immigrant groups in Guangzhou. It finds that immigrants actively assign rich local connotations to their hometown food and local food in Guangzhou that cross geographical boundaries, constructing a "mobile localness" in their daily diet. The localness of hometown food is constructed by the long-term trust between immigrants and the food providers in their hometown. Hometown food alleviated nostalgia, promoted social integration, and formed a short supply chain with direct contact between producers and consumers. Certain food produced and sold in Guangzhou is also endowed with localness based on the physical sentiments of immigrants. The localness of food is not an a priori property, but a process reality that can be constituted through eating and integrating the body into the place. In this process, the value of external attributes such as the geographical boundaries of production is diluted, while the materiality felt by the body is strengthened. In short, in contrast to the rebellious local food movement, immigrants embed local food into their local lives, highlighting multiple daily meanings, mainly in breaking through food knowledge fix, alleviating food anxiety, and enhancing the intimate relationship between body and place.
Chambers S, Lobb A, Butler L, et al. Local, national and imported foods: A qualitative study[J]. Appetite, 2007,49(1):208-213.
[2]
Megicks P, Memery J, Angell R J. Understanding local food shopping: Unpacking the ethical dimension[J]. Journal of Marketing Management, 2012,28(3/4):264-289.
[3]
Delind L B. Of bodies, place, and culture: Re-situating local food[J]. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics, 2006,19(2):121- 146.
[4]
唐雪琼,杨茜好,钱俊希.社会建构主义视角下的边界——研究综述与启示[J].地理科学进展,2014,33(7):969-978. [Tang Xueqiong, Yang Xihao, Qian Junxi. Conceptualizing border from a social constructionist perspective: Current progress and implications for future research[J]. Progress in Geography, 2014,33(7):969-978.]
[5]
Schnell S M. Food miles, local eating, and community supported agriculture: Putting local food in its place[J]. Agriculture and Human Values, 2013,30(4):615-628.
[6]
Longhurst R, Johnston L, Ho E. A visceral approach: Cooking at home with migrant women in Hamilton, New Zealand[J]. Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 2009,34(3):333-345.
[7]
Hayes-Conroy J, Hayes-Conroy A. Visceral geographies: Mattering, relating, and defying[J]. Geography Compass, 2010,4(9):1273-1283.
[8]
Johnston L, Longhurst R. Embodied geographies of food, belonging and hope in multicultural Hamilton, Aotearoa New Zealand[J]. GeoForum, 2012,43(2):325-331.
[9]
陈昊曦,袁振杰,蔡晓梅.广州法系群体的日常生活与地方认同研究[J].地理科学,2020,40(12):2027-2036. [Chen Haoxi, Yuan Zhenjie, Cai Xiaomei. The daily life and place identity of the Francophone population in Guangzhou[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2020,40(12):2027-2036.]
[10]
陈晓亮,蔡晓梅,朱竑.基于“地方场域” 视角的中国旅游研究反思[J].地理研究,2019,38(11):2578-2594. [Chen Xiaoliang, Cai Xiaomei, Zhu Hong. Reflection on China's tourism study based on the perspective of field of place[J]. Geographical Research, 2019, 38(11):2578-2594.]
[11]
Valiente-Neighbours J M. Mobility, embodiment, and scales: Filipino immigrant perspectives on local food[J]. Agriculture and Human Values, 2012,29(4):531-541.
[12]
朱竑,刘博.地方感、 地方依恋与地方认同等概念的辨析及研究启示[J].华南师范大学学报(自然科学版),2011(1):1-8. [Zhu Hong, Liu Bo. Concepts analysis and research implications: Sense of place, place attachment and place identity[J]. Journal of South China Normal University (Natural Science Edition), 2011(1):1-8.]
[13]
周尚意,成志芬.关于“乡愁” 的空间道德和地方道德评价[J].人文地理,2015,30(6):1-6. [Zhou Shangyi, Cheng Zhifen. On the morality of nostalgia[J]. Human Geography, 2015,30(6):1-6.]
[14]
刘博,朱竑,袁振杰.传统节庆在地方认同建构中的意义——以广州“迎春花市” 为例[J].地理研究,2012,31(12):2197-2208. [Liu Bo, Zhu Hong, Yuan Zhenjie. The significance of the traditional festival in the construction of place identity: A case study of the Winter Jasmine Flower Market in Guangzhou[J]. Geographical Research, 2012,31(12):2197-2208.]
[15]
曾国军,王龙杰.可持续饮食系统的研究进展与理论框架[J].地理研究,2019,38(8):2068-2084. [Zeng Guojun, Wang Longjie. Sustainable food system: Review and research framework[J]. Geographical Research, 2019,38(8):2068-2084.]
[16]
蔡少燕,陶伟.从漠视到觉醒： 西方旅游研究对身体的再认识[J].人文地理,2019,34(4):1- 12. [Cai Shaoyan, Tao Wei. From indifference to awakening: The rethink of western tourism studies on body [J]. Human Geography, 2019,34(4):1-12.]
[17]
陶伟,蔡少燕,余晓晨.流动性视角下流动家庭的空间实践和情感重构[J].地理学报,2019,74(6):1252-1266. [Tao Wei, Cai Shaoyan, Yu Xiaochen. The emotional reconstruction and spatial practices of mobilizing family: A perspective from mobility[J]. Acta Geograhica Sinica, 2019,74(6):1252-1266.]
[18]
Blake M K, Mellor J, Crane L. Buying local food: Shopping practices, place, and consumption networks in defining food as "local"[J]. Annals of the Association of American Geographers, 2010,100(2): 409-426.
[19]
林俊帆,林耿.意义、 权力与再物质化： 食物消费地理新进展[J].人文地理,2014,29(6):40-46. [Lin Junfan, Lin Geng. Meaning, power and rematerializing: Progress in geography of food consumption[J]. Human Geography, 2014,29(6):40-46.]
[20]
曾国军,徐雨晨,王龙杰,等.从在地化、 去地化到再地化： 中国城镇化进程中的人地关系转型[J].地理科学进展,2021,40(1):28-39. [Zeng Guojun, Xu Yuchen, Wang Longjie, et al. From localization to de-localization and re-localization: Transformation of the humanland relationship in China's urbanization process[J]. Progress in Geography, 2021,40(1):28-39.]
[21]
周尚意,张晶.地方性对地理标识性产品垄断利润形成的影响——以苏州洞庭碧螺春为例[J].地理科学,2015,35(11):1357- 1363. [Zhou Shangyi, Zhang Jing. The impact of place on the monopoly profit of a geographical indication product: A case of Dongting Biluochun Tea in Suzhou[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2015,35(11):1357-1363.]
[22]
曾国军,王龙杰.饮食文化生产中的原真性、 食品安全与食品健康[J].旅游导刊,2018,2(4):15-30. [Zeng Guojun, Wang Longjie. Production of food culture: Authenticity, food safety and food health [J]. Tourism and Hospitality Prospects, 2018,2(4):15-30.]
[23]
De Certeau M, Mayol P. The Practice of Everyday Life: Living and Cooking[M]. Berkeley,: University of Minnesota Press, 1998.
[24]
曾国军,孙树芝,朱竑,等.全球化与地方性冲突背后的跨地方饮食文化生产——基于广州的案例[J].地理科学,2013,33(3):291-298. [Zeng Guojun, Sun Shuzhi, Zhu Hong, et al. Translocal restaurants' cultural production under the paradox of globalization and locality: Case studies from Guangzhou[J]. Scientia Geographica Sinica, 2013,33(3):291-298.]
[25]
曾国军,刘梅,刘博,等.跨地方饮食文化生产的过程研究──基于符号化的原真性视角[J].地理研究,2013,32(12):2366-2376. [Zeng Guojun, Liu Mei, Liu Bo, et al. Research on process to translocal restaurants' culture production: Based on the perspective of symbolization of authenticity[J]. Geographical Research, 2013,32(12): 2366-2376.]
[26]
梁璐,张雅如,李雪莲,等.城市怀旧型消费空间的感知与地方建构研究——以西安连锁餐厅“遇见长安” 为例[J].经济地理,2020, 40(8):222- 230. [Liang Lu, Zhang Yaru, Li Xuelian, et al. Perception and construction of place of urban nostalgic consumption space: A case study of "Meet Chang'an" restaurant[J]. Economic Geography, 2020,40(8):222-230.]
[27]
Yan Y. Food Safety and social risk in contemporary China[J]. The Journal of Asian studies, 2012,71(3):705-729.
[28]
张连海.感官民族志： 理论、 实践与表征[J].民族研究,2015(2):55- 67,124-125. [Zhang Lianhai. Sensory ethnography: Theory, practice and representation[J]. Ethno National Studies, 2015(2):55- 67， 124-125.]
[29]
Yang E C L, Khoo-Lattimore C. Food and the perception of eating: The case of young Taiwanese consumers[J]. Asian Pacific Journal of Tourism Research, 2015,20(sup1):1545-1564.
[30]
Eden S, Bear C, Walker G. Mucky carrots and other proxies: Problematising the knowledge-fix for sustainable and ethical consumption[J]. GeoForum, 2008,39(2):1044-1057.
[31]
Zhong S, Crang M, Zeng G. Constructing freshness: The vitality of wet markets in urban China[J]. Agriculture and Human Values, 2020,37(1):175-185.
[32]
Martindale L. 'I will know it when I taste it': Trust, food materialities and social media in Chinese alternative food networks[J]. Agriculture and Human Values, 2021,38(2):365-380.
