流动群体饮食实践中的伦理变迁与身份协商——基于主体性、社会性、地方性的分析

曾国军; 李忠奇; 王龙杰; 徐雨晨; 钟淑如

doi:10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2023.06.004

PDF(2345 KB)

人文地理 ›› 2023, Vol. 38 ›› Issue (6) : 23-33. DOI: 10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2023.06.004

流动性专栏

流动群体饮食实践中的伦理变迁与身份协商——基于主体性、社会性、地方性的分析

曾国军¹, 李忠奇¹, 王龙杰², 徐雨晨¹, 钟淑如¹

作者信息 +

THE CHANGE OF DIET ETHICS AND IDENTITY OF MOBILE POPULATIONS: AN ANALYTICAL FRAMEWORK BASED ON SUBJECTIVITY, SOCIALITY AND LOCALITY

ZENG Guo-jun¹, LI Zhong-qi¹, WANG Long-jie², XU Yu-chen¹, ZHONG Shu-ru¹

Author information +

文章历史 +

摘要

流动性背景下，大规模、长距离的人口迁移现象日益频繁，引致流动群体的饮食实践不断重塑，由此引发的饮食伦理及其所表征的身份认同问题已经成为新文化地理学研究的重要议题。本文构建了以“使用物—追踪物—感受物”为内在线索，主体性、社会性、地方性为三极，饮食伦理、身份认同为内核的三维分析框架，并在文献梳理的基础上，从上述三个视角出发，系统论述流动群体的具身饮食体验、社会互动以及地方情境在流动群体饮食伦理与身份认同的多样化动态发展过程中所起的重要作用，强调食物在流动群体饮食实践中的能动性，并细化阐述流动群体饮食伦理与身份认同间相辅相成、互为表里的内在逻辑，进一步探索了“人—食物—地方”之间的多重社会文化内涵。最后展望了新文化地理学中流动群体饮食研究可进一步探索的重点议题与方向。

Abstract

Under the background of mobility, the phenomenon of large-scale and long-distance population migration is becoming more and more frequent, resulting in the continuous remodeling of the food consumption practice of mobile populations, which has led to the problems of diet ethics and identity, and has become an important topic in the study of new cultural geography. This paper constructs a three-dimensional analytical framework with "living with things" "following the things" and "feeling the things" as the internal clue, subjectivity, sociality and locality as the three poles, and diet ethics and identity as the core. On the basis of literature review, this paper systematically and comprehensively discusses the important role of the physical diet experience, social interaction and local context in the diversified dynamic development process of diet ethics and identity of mobile populations, and emphasizing the initiative of food in the dietary practice of the mobile group, and elaborating the internal logic of the complementary and internal relationship between the diet ethics and identity of mobile populations. Finally, the paper looks forward to the key topics and directions that can be further explored in the study of mobile populations' diet in new cultural geography.

导出引用

曾国军, 李忠奇, 王龙杰, 徐雨晨, 钟淑如. 流动群体饮食实践中的伦理变迁与身份协商——基于主体性、社会性、地方性的分析[J]. 人文地理. 2023, 38(6): 23-33 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2023.06.004

ZENG Guo-jun, LI Zhong-qi, WANG Long-jie, XU Yu-chen, ZHONG Shu-ru. THE CHANGE OF DIET ETHICS AND IDENTITY OF MOBILE POPULATIONS: AN ANALYTICAL FRAMEWORK BASED ON SUBJECTIVITY, SOCIALITY AND LOCALITY[J]. HUMAN GEOGRAPHY. 2023, 38(6): 23-33 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2023.06.004

中图分类号： K901.6

参考文献

[1] Urry J. Sociology Beyond Societies:Mobilities for the Twenty-First Century[M]. London:Routledge, 2000:49-76.
[2] 孙九霞,周尚意,王宁,等.跨学科聚焦的新领域:流动的时间、空间与社会[J].地理研究, 2016, 35(10):1801-1818.[Sun Jiuxia, Zhou Shangyi, Wang Ning, et al. Mobility in geographical research:Time, space and society[J]. Geographical Research, 2016, 35(10):1801-1818.]
[3] Zwart H. A short history of food ethics[J]. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics, 2000,12:113-126.
[4] Popke J. Geography and ethics:Everyday mediations through care and consumption[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2006, 30(4):504-512.
[5] Clarke N. From ethical consumerism to political consumption[J]. Geography Compass, 2008,2(6):1870-1884.
[6] Opondo H. Humanising the cut flower chain:Confronting the realities of flower production for workers in Kenya[J]. Antipode, 2005, 37(2):301-323.
[7] Dolan C S. Arbitrating risk through moral values:The case of Kenyan Fairtrade[J]. Research in Economic Anthropology, 2008, 28:271-296.
[8] 曾国军,王龙杰.可持续饮食系统的研究进展与理论框架[J].地理研究,2019,38(8):2068-2084.[Zeng Guojun, Wang Longjie. Sustainable food system:Review and research framework[J]. Geographical Research, 2019,38(8):2068-2084.]
[9] 韩作珍.饮食伦理-在中国文化的视野下[M].北京:人民出版社, 2017:1-100.[Han Zuozhen. Diet Ethics-From the perspective of Chinese culture[M]. Beijing:People's Publishing House, 2017:1-100.]
[10] Harris M, Ross E B. Food and Evolution:Toward a Theory of Human Food Habits[M]. Philadelphia, PA:Temple University Press, 1987:181-205.
[11] 钟淑如,张小萱,曾国军.文化地理学视角下跨国移民饮食适应研究进展与启示[J].人文地理,2021,36(6):1-8.[Zhong Shuru, Zhang Xiaoxuan, Zeng Guojun. Progress of research on dietaryacculturation of transnationalimmigrants from the perspective of cultural geography[J]. Human Geography, 2021,36(6):1-8.]
[12] Schermuly A C, Forbes-Mewett H. Food, identity and belonging:A case study of South African-Australians[J]. British Food Journal, 2016,118(10):2434-2443.
[13] Gabaccia D R. We are What We Eat:Ethnic Food and the Making of Americans[M]. Cambridge, MA:Harvard University Press, 1998:1-288.
[14] Fleura B, Jacob O, Anders B. Negotiating cultural boundaries:Food, travel and consumer identities[J]. Consumption, Markets&Culture, 2010,13(2):133-157.
[15] 李锦昊,陈浩然,马凌.越南难侨的身份协商与国家认同——基于珠海市原红旗华侨农场的案例[J].人文地理,2023,38(1):56-63.[Li Jinhao, Chen Haoran, Ma Ling. Identity negotiation and national identity of returned vietnamese chinese:A case study of the former Hongqi Farm in Zhuhai[J]. Human Geography, 2023,38(1):56-63.]
[16] 曾国军,林家惠,钟淑如.流动群体跨地方饮食适应的多元策略及身份协商——广州案例[J].地理科学进展,2022,41(4):660-669.[Zeng Guojun, Lin Jiahui, Zhong Shuru. Multivariate strategies and identity negotiation of trans-local dietaryadaptation of immigrant groups:A case study of Guangzhou City[J]. Progress in Geography, 2022,41(4):660-669.]
[17] Helen V, Kim R. Consuming food and constructing identities among Arabic and South Asian immigrant women[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2008,11(3):355-373.
[18] 蔡晓梅,曹婧,刘俊.拼装理论在人文地理学研究中的应用与展望[J].地理学报,2022,77(10):2633-2649.[Cai Xiaomei, Cao Jing, Liu Jun. The application and prospect of assemblage theory in human geography research[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2022,77(10):2633-2649.]
[19] 袁超,陈品宇,孔翔,等.行动者网络理论与人文地理学的交互关系研究——重构、争辩与反思[J].地理研究,2021,40(2):583-596.[Yuan Chao, Chen Pinyu, Kong Xiang, et al. Research on the interaction between actor-network theory andhuman geography:Reconstruction, debate and reflection[J]. Geographical Research, 2021, 40(2):583-596.]
[20] 王敏,江荣灏,朱竑.新文化地理学中的非表征与再物质化研究进展[J].地理科学进展, 2019,38(2):153-163.[Wang Min, Jiang Ronghao, Zhu Hong. "Non-representational", "re-materializing" and the research methods of new cultural geography[J]. Progress in Geography, 2019,38(2):153-163.]
[21] 张博,刘美新,蔡晓梅.物质、情感和权力:跨国移民与家的地理学[J].世界地理研究,2022,31(6):1130-1141.[Zhang Bo, Liu Meixin, Cai Xiaomei. Material, emotion and power:Transnational migration and home geography[J]. World Regional Studies, 2022, 31(6):1130-1141.]
[22] 赵弋徵,陈品宇,孔翔.新物质主义视角下的消费地理研究进展与反思[J].地理科学进展,2021,40(8):1419-1429.[Zhao Yizheng, Chen Pinyu, Kong Xiang. Progress and reflection of geographies of consumptionfrom the perspective of new materialism[J]. Progress in Geography, 2021,40(8):1419-1429.]
[23] 刘美新,蔡晓梅,范雅迪.跨国精英移民的日常生活实践与根植性家的营造[J].人文地理,2021,36(6):60-66.[Liu Meixin, Cai Xiaomei, Fan Yadi. The everyday life practice and home-making of transnational elite migrant[J]. Human Geography, 2021, 36(6):60-66.]
[24] 陶伟,李晓璇,蔡浩辉.自然商品化中的物质实践和话语建构-以困鹿山普洱茶为例[J].地理科学,2022,42(12):2150-2159.[Tao Wei, Li Xiaoxuan, Cai Haohui. Materialpractice and discourse construction in commercialization of nature:A case study of Pu'er Tea in Kunlushan village[J]. Scientia GeographicaSinica, 2022, 42(12):2150-2159.]
[25] Kearnes M B. Geographies that matter:The rhetorical deploymentof physicality[J]. Social and Cultural Geography, 2003, 4(2):139-152.
[26] Cloke P, Crang P, Goodwin M. Introducing Human Geographies (2nd Edition)[M]. London:Arnold, 2005:168-181.
[27] 马凌,朱竑,王敏.重返"物质":新文化地理学视角下的消费研究及进展评述[J].人文地理,2019,34(3):44-52,82.[Ma Ling, Zhu Hong, Wang Min. Review of re-materialization and consumption studies in new cultural geography[J]. Human Geography, 2019, 34(3):44-52,82.]
[28] Kong L. Food, Foodways and Foodscapes:Culture, Community and Consumption in Post-colonial Singapore[M]. Singapore:World Scientific, 2015:6-9.
[29] 林煦丹,朱竑,尹铎.物质地理学的研究进展和启示:追踪物质(following the things)视角[J].地理科学进展,2021,40(7):1235-1245.[Lin Xudan, Zhu Hong, Yin Duo. Progress of the material geography studies with the perspective of "following the things" and implications[J]. Progress in Geography, 2021,40(7):1235-1245.]
[30] Lorimer H. Cultural geography:The busyness of being 'more-thanrepresentational'[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2005,29(1):83-94.
[31] Bessiere J. Local development and heritage:Traditional food andcuisine as tourist attractions in rural areas[J]. Sociological Ruralis, 1983,38(1):21-34.
[32] 罗秋菊,丁绍莲,潘珂.外来饮食文化影响下广州本地居民地方身份建构过程的代际差异[J].地理研究,2018,37(9):1762-1774.[Luo Qiuju, Ding Shaolian, Pan Ke. Generational differences in the influence of exotic gastronomic culture on local residents' place identity in Guangzhou[J]. Geographical Research, 2018,37(9):1762-1774.]
[33] 林俊帆,林耿.意义、权力与再物质化:食物消费地理新进展[J].人文地理,2014,29(6):40-46.[Lin Junfan, Lin Geng. Meaning, power and rematerializing:Progress in geography of food consumption[J]. Human Geography, 2014,29(6):40-46.]
[34] 蔡晓梅,刘晨.人文地理学视角下的国外饮食文化研究进展[J].人文地理,2013,28(5):36-41.[Cai Xiaomei, Liu Chen. Progress in the foreign geographical food studies[J]. Human Geography, 2013, 28(5):36-41.]
[35] Conradson D, Mckay D. Translocal subjectivities:Mobility, connection, emotion[J]. Mobilities, 2007,2(2):167-174.
[36] Bondi L, Avis H, Bankey R. Subjectivities, Knowledges, and Feminist Geographies:The Subjects and Ethics of Social Research[M]. Oxford:Rowman&Littlefield, 2002:1-312.
[37] Cresswell T. Place:A Short Introduction[M]. Oxford:Blackwell. 2004:1-168.
[38] Pile S, Thrift N J. Mapping the Subject:Geographies of Cultural Transformation[J]. Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 1995,3(3):748-750.
[39] 高权,钱俊希."情感转向"视角下地方性重构研究——以广州猎德村为例[J].人文地理,2016,31(4):33-41.[Gao Quan, Qian Junxi. Negotiating piace-restructuring from the perspective of emotional geographies:A case study of Liede village, Guangzhou[J]. Human Geography, 2016,31(4):33-41.]
[40] Hayes-Conroy A, Martin D G. Mobilizing bodies:Visceral identification in the Slow Food Movement[J]. Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers, 2010,35(2):269-281.
[41] Parasecoli F. Hungry engrams:Food and non-representational memory[J]. Food and Philosophy, 2007:102-114.
[42] Parasecoli F. Food, identity, and cultural reproduction in immigrant communities[J]. Social Research, 2014,81(2):415-439.
[43] 王宁.流动的消费本土性:劳动力迁移中的文化随迁——以本土性饮食文化的跨境流动为例[J].山东社会科学,2015,29(10):27-34.[Wang Ning. The localization of mobile consumption:The cultural mobility in the migration of labor force:A case study of the cross-border movement of localism food culture[J]. Shandong Social Sciences, 2015,29(10):27-34.]
[44] Bourdieu P, Distinction:A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste. Translated by Richard Nice[M].Nice R, trans. London:Routledge, 1984:468-500.
[45] Gilman R B S L. A thousand plateaus:Capitalism and schizophrenia by Gilles Deleuze; Felix Guattari; Brian Massumi[J]. The Journal of Interdisciplinary History, 1989,19(4):657-659.
[46] Fischler C. Food, self and identity[J]. Social Science Information, 1988,27(2):275-292.
[47] 陶伟,王绍续,朱竑.身体、身体观以及人文地理学对身体的研究[J].地理研究,2015,34(6):1173-1187.[Tao Wei, Wang Shaoxu, Zhu Hong. The body, the view of body, and the study of body in human geography[J]. Geographical Research, 2015,34(6):1173-1187.]
[48] 陶伟,王绍续,朱竑.广州拾荒者的身体实践与空间建构[J].地理学报,2017,72(12):2199-2213.[Tao Wei, Wang Shaoxu, Zhu Hong. Scavengers'bodily practices and spatial construction in Guangzhou[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2017,72(12):2199-2213.]
[49] Holtzman, Jon D. Food and memory[J]. Annual Review of Anthropology, 2006,35(1):361-378.
[50] 赵晔琴.身份建构逻辑与群体性差异的表征——基于巴黎东北新移民的实证调查[J].社会学研究, 2013,28(6):193-246.[Zhao Yeqin. The Logic of Identity Construction and the Characterization of Group Differences:An empirical study based on new immigrants in Paris from Northeast China[J]. Sociological Studies, 2013,28(6):193-246.]
[51] 钱超英.自我、他者与身份焦虑——论澳大利亚新华人文学及其文化意义[J].暨南学报(哲学社会科学), 2000,22(4):4-12.[Qian Chaoying. Self, the Others and Extremby Anxious of Body ldentity——the new Chinese literature in Australia and its cultural meaning[J]. Jinan Journal (Philosophy&Social Sciences), 2000, 22(4):4-12.]
[52] 蔡晓梅,刘美新,彭星星.阶层流动:美甲师的空间策略与身份协商[J].人文地理,2018,33(6):44-52.[Cai Xiaomei, Liu Meixin, Peng Xingxing. Class mobility:Manicurists'spatial strategies and identity negotiation[J]. Human Geography, 2018,33(6):44-52.]
[53] Tookes, Jennifer, Sweeney. "The food represents":Barbadian foodways in the diaspora[J]. Appetite, 2015,90(7):65-73.
[54] Fleura Bardhi, Jacob Ostberg, Anders Bengtsson. Negotiating cultural boundaries:Food, travel and consumer identities[J]. Consumption Markets&Culture, 2010,13(2):133-157.
[55] Mellin-Olsen T, Wandel M. Changes in food habits among Pakistani immigrant women in Oslo, Norway[J]. Ethnicity&Health, 2005,10(4):311-339.
[56] Srinivas, Tulasi. Everyday exotic:Transnational space, identity and contemporary foodways in Bangalore City[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2007,10(1):85-107.
[57] 库利.人类本性与社会秩序[M].北京:华夏出版社, 1989:78.[Coodley C N. On Self And Social Organization[M]. Beijing:Huaxia Publishing House, 1989:78.]
[58] 王春光.移民空间的建构:巴黎温州人跟踪研究[M].北京:社会科学文献出版社, 2017:97-125.[Wang Chunguang. Constructing Space:A Longitudinal Study of Immigrants form Wenzhou in Paris[M]. Beijing:Social Sciences Academic Press, 2017:97-125.]
[59] 刘小敏,黎明泽."原地市民化":乡村振兴背景下中国农民市民化的新路向——基于发达地区15个非农化乡村的调查[J].学术研究, 2019(9):56-64.[Liu Xiaomin, Li Mingze. "In situ citizenization":A new way of Chinese farmers'citizenization under the background of Rural Revitalization——Based on the survey of 15 nonagricultural villages in developed areas[J]. Academic Research, 2019(9):56-64.]
[60] Gasparetti F. Eating tie boujenn in Turin:Negotiating differences and building community among Senegalese migrants in Italy[J]. Food and Foodways, 2012,20(3/4):257-278.
[61] Liu C, Yang R, Xue D. Chinese Muslims'daily food practices and their geographies of encounter in urban Guangzhou[J]. Social&Cultural Geography, 2020,21(9):1287-1306.
[62] 马成明,崔莉.外来移民群体的日常饮食实践与文化认同——基于宁夏银川的人类学考察[J].贵州民族研究,2020,41(7):95-100.[Ma Chengming, Cui Li. Cultural ldentity in everyday life diet practices of immigrants:based on the anthropological study of Yinchuan, Ningxia[J]. Guizhou Ethnic Studies, 2020,41(7):95-100.]
[63] Venkatesh S, Weatherspoon L J. Food behaviors and dietary acculturation of Asian Indians in the US[J]. Journal of Nutrition Education and Behavior, 2018,50(6):529-535.
[64] Chapman G E, Beagan B L. Food practices and transnational identities:Case studies of two Punjabi-Canadian families[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2013,16(3):367-386.
[65] Bell D, Valentine G. Consuming Geographies:We Are Where We Eat[M]. London:Psychology Press, 1997:1-256.
[66] Ramírez A S, Golash-Boza T, Unger J B, et al. Questioning the dietary acculturation paradox:A mixed-methods study of the relationship between food and ethnic identity in a group of MexicanAmerican women[J]. Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics, 2018,118(3):431-439.
[67] Gupta M D. "What is Indian about you?" A gendered, transnational approach to ethnicity[J]. Gender&Society, 1997,11(5):572-596.
[68] Johnston L,Longhurst R. Embodied geographies of food, belonging and hope in multicultural Hamilton, Aotearoa New Zealand[J]. Geoforum, 2011,43(2):325-331.
[69] Wise A. Hope and belonging in a multicultural suburb[J]. Journal of Intercultural Studies, 2005,26(1/2):171-186.
[70] Valentine G. Eating in:Home, consumption and identity[J]. The Sociological Review, 1999,47(3):491-524.
[71] Mak A H N, Lumbers M, Eves A, et al. Factors influencing tourist food consumption[J]. International Journal of Hospitality Management, 2012,31(3):928-936.
[72] 李坚诚.全球化-地方性背景下的饮食文化生产:潮菜原料时空特征[J].热带地理,2017(4):122-128.[Li Jiancheng. Catering Cultural Production under the Background of Globalization and Locality:Spatial-temporal Characteristics of Teochew Cuisine Ingredients[J]. Tropical Geography, 2017(4):122-128.]
[73] 陶伟,蔡少燕,余晓晨.流动性视角下流动家庭的空间实践和情感重构[J].地理学报, 2019,74(6):1252-1266.[Tao Wei, Cai Shaoyan, Yu Xiaochen. The emotional reconstruction and spatial practices of mobilizing family:A perspective from mobility[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2019,74(6):1252-1266.]
[74] Ahmed S, Castañeda C, Fortier A M, Sheller M. Uprootings/Regroundings:Questions of Home and Migration[M]. Oxford:Berg, 2003:1-304.
[75] Suen W H. A Taste of the Past:Historically Themed Restaurants and Social Memory in Singapore[M]. London:Routledge, 2007:127-140.
[76] Beyers L. Creating home food, ethnicity and gender among Italians in Belgium since 1946[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2008,11(1):7-27.
[77] Koc M, Welsh J. Food, foodways and immigrant experience[J]. Toronto:Centre for Studies in Food Security, 2001,2:46-48.
[78] 方百寿,孙杨.文化视角下的食物景观初探——以Gilroy镇大蒜节为例[J].北京第二外国语学院学报, 2011,33(9):6-10.[Fang Baishou, Sun Yang. Analysis of the Foodscape Through A Cultural View:A Case of The Garlic Festive at Gilroy[J]. Journal of Beijing International Studies University, 2011,33(9):6-10.]
[79] 曹雨.海外华人的饮食文化自我认同[J].浙江学刊,2019(5):24-38, 2.[Cao Yu. Food and Foodways on Overseas Chinese Identity Construction[J]. Zhejiang Academic Journal, 2019(5):24-38,2.]
[80] 陈志明.海外华人:移民、食物和认同[J].北方民族大学学报(哲学社会科学版),2018(4):5-12.[Tan Cheebeng. Chinese overseas:migration, food and identity[J]. Journal of North MinzuUniversity (Philosophy and Social Science), 2018(4):5-12.]
[81] 凯·安德森.文化地理学手册[M].北京:商务印书馆, 2009:666-667.[Ka Y Anderson. Handbook of Cultural Geography[M]. Beijing:The Commercial Press, 2009:666-667.]
[82] Tuomainen H M.Ethnic identity,(post) colonialism and foodways:Ghanaians in London[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2009,12(4):525-554.
[83] 钟淑如,王龙杰,曾国军.跨越地理边界的地方性食物——以广州流动群体的饮食消费为例[J].人文地理,2022,37(4):39-45.[Zhong Shuru, Wang Longjie, Zeng Guojun. Local food beyond geographical boundaries:The everyday food practices of migrants in guangzhou[J]. Human Geography, 2022,37(4):39-45.]
[84] Vallianatos H, Raine K. Consuming food and constructing identities among Arabic and South Asian immigrant women[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2015,11(3):355-373.
[85] Wu D Y H, Tan C B. Changing Chinese foodways in Asia[M]. Hong Kong:Chinese University Press:2001:1-328.
[86] Peter L. Berger, Thomas Luckmann. The Social Construction of Reality[M]. England:Penguin Books Ltd, 1991:1-219.
[87] (英)扶霞·邓洛普.鱼翅与花椒[M].何雨珈,译.上海:上海译文出版社,2018:1-265.[Fuchsia Dunlop. Shark's Fin and Sichuan Pepper[M]. He Yujia, trans. Shanghai:Shanghai Translation Publishing House, 2018:1-265.]
[88] Caplan P. Food, Health and Identity[M], London:Routledge, 1997:1-31.
[89] Salmón E. Eating the Landscape:American Indian Stories of Food, Identity, and Resilience[M]. Tucson:University of Arizona Press, 2012:1-170.
[90] Park K. Ethnic foodscapes:Foreign cuisines in the United States[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2017,20(3):365-393.
[91] Cook I, Crang P, Thorpe M. Biographies and geographies:Consumer understandings of the origins of food[J]. British Food Journal, 1998,100(3):162-167.