社会实践理论视角下客家婚宴与“家”的研究——以广东南雄为例

林俊帆; 金鑫; 陈敬复; 林耿

doi:10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2025.02.005

PDF(5035 KB)

人文地理 ›› 2025, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (2) : 42-52. DOI: 10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2025.02.005

文化

社会实践理论视角下客家婚宴与“家”的研究——以广东南雄为例

林俊帆¹, 金鑫², 陈敬复³, 林耿⁴

作者信息 +

EXPLORING HAKKA WEDDING BANQUET AND FAMILY CULTURE IN NANXIONG, GUANGDONG: USING THE LENS OF SOCIAL PRACTICE THEORY

LIN Jun-fan¹, JIN Xin², CHEN Jing-fu³, LIN Geng⁴

Author information +

文章历史 +

摘要

饮食是构建多元认同的重要媒介。族群依靠传统饮食重拾其历史记忆并维系、强化族群认同。传统的集体饮食活动在现代社会发生演变，然而，其对个体与族群的文化认同建构与传承，尤其是对以“家”与家族为核心的空间再生产的影响过程和作用机理，尚缺乏深入的理论探讨。本文以客家婚宴为例，基于社会实践理论，运用参与式观察、小组访谈、深度访谈方法，对饮食生产和消费实践及其在“家”文化传承中的角色进行诠释。研究发现：第一，传统婚宴的生产和消费实践集中展演家文化、家空间与家族主义，两者共同推动客家集体情感与核心文化价值的表达。第二，客家婚宴作为可持续实践，其演化过程展示“家”理念传承以及家族空间和生活秩序的现代性适应、变迁和传承。在此过程，饮食的具身体验（视听味）、客家人的社会网络、对下一代的文化教育是关键。

Abstract

As an emerging domain in human geography, the current food geography is calling for further deeper empirical studies, as well as interdisciplinary theoretical debates. For the case, the Hakka is a branch of the Han ethnic group with distinct ethnic characteristics and has retained many elements of ancient Han culture to date. This paper deploys the social practice theory to explain Hakka wedding banquets. Taking Nanxiong of Guangdong as an empirical case, and using the research methods of participatory observation, in-depth and group interviews, the researchers specifically collected information on details of wedding banquet processes as well as social and cultural backgrounds that are concerned. There are two inclusions. Firstly, family culture, home space and clan are presented through the practices of wedding banquet production and consumption. Second, Hakka wedding banquet as a bundle of established practices mirrors the modern change and inheritance of belief of "family", home space and clan order.

导出引用

林俊帆, 金鑫, 陈敬复, 林耿. 社会实践理论视角下客家婚宴与“家”的研究——以广东南雄为例[J]. 人文地理. 2025, 40(2): 42-52 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2025.02.005

LIN Jun-fan, JIN Xin, CHEN Jing-fu, LIN Geng. EXPLORING HAKKA WEDDING BANQUET AND FAMILY CULTURE IN NANXIONG, GUANGDONG: USING THE LENS OF SOCIAL PRACTICE THEORY[J]. HUMAN GEOGRAPHY. 2025, 40(2): 42-52 https://doi.org/10.13959/j.issn.1003-2398.2025.02.005

中图分类号： K901

参考文献

[1] 胡骄键.中国式现代化进程中"家"的解构与重构[J].学习与实践,2023(1):124-132.[Hu Jiaojian. Deconstruction and reconstruction of "family" in the process of Chinese path to modernization[J]. Study and Practice, 2023(1):124-132.]
[2] 薛熙明,封丹.变动中的家与地方:一个关联性的研究综述[J].人文地理,2016,31(4):9-16.[Xue Ximing, Feng Dan. Home and place in a changing world:A related review[J]. Human Geography, 2016, 31(4):9-16.]
[3] 蔡少燕.城市消费空间"家"的想象与情感建构[J].世界地理研究, 2021,30(6):1286-1296.[Cai Shaoyan. The imagination and emotional construction of "home" in urban consumption space[J]. World Regional Studies, 2021,30(6):1286-1296.]
[4] 石奕龙,谢菲.客家婚礼饮食行为的社会记忆与象征隐喻——以广西博白县大安村为例[J].中南民族大学学报(人文社会科学版), 2013,33(4):31-36.[Shi Yilong, Xie Fei. Eating-related social memory and symbolic metaphor of Hakka wedding[J]. Journal of SouthCentral University for Nationalities (Humanities and Social Sciences), 2013,33(4):31-36.]
[5] 刘焕云.台湾客家婚姻礼俗变迁之研究[J].赣南师范学院学报, 2009,30(5):16-22.[Liu Huanyun. A research on the changes of Taiwanese Hakkas'marriage etiquette and custom[J]. Journal of Gannan Normal University, 2009,30(5):16-22.]
[6] 幸莹洁,练月圆.客家传统婚礼音声研究——基于江西南康的田野调查[J].歌海,2016(3):123-126,131.[Xing Yingjie, Lian Yue-yuan. Research on Hakka traditional wedding sounds:Based on field investigation in Nankang, Jiangxi province[J]. Gehai, 2016(3):123-126, 131.]
[7] 曾国军,李忠奇,王龙杰,等.流动群体饮食实践中的伦理变迁与身份协商[J].人文地理,2023,38(6):23-33.[Zeng Guojun, Li Zhongqi, Wang Longjie, et al. The change of diet ethics and identity of mobile populations:An analysis framework based on subjectivity, sociality and locality[J]. Human Geography, 2023,38(6):23-33.]
[8] 罗伟杰,汤佩,陶伟".家"的地理学:研究概况、最新进展及启示——基于CiteSpace和Bibliometric的图谱量化分析[J].世界地理研究,2023, 32(12):155-171.[Luo Weijie, Tang Pei, Tao Wei. The general situation, progress and prospect for the research on the geographies of home:Visualized quantitative study based on CiteSpace and Bibliometric[J]. World Regional Studies, 2023,32(12):155-171.]
[9] 陶伟,蔡少燕,余晓晨.流动性视角下流动家庭的空间实践和情感重构[J].地理学报,2019,74(6):1252-1266.[Tao Wei, Cai Shaoyan, Yu Xiaochen. The emotional reconstruction and spatial practices of mobilizing family:A perspective from mobility[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2019,74(6):1252-1266.]
[10] 陈淳,袁振杰,朱竑.城镇化背景下广州流动儿童对"家"空间的建构[J].地理学报,2018,73(12):2440-2451.[Chen Chun, Yuan Zhenjie, Zhu Hong. Floating children in Guangzhou:The construction of "home" in the context of urbanization[J]. Acta Geographica Sinica, 2018,73(12):2440-2451.]
[11] 戴烽.家文化视角下的公共参与[J].广西社会科学,2008(4):198-201.[Dai Feng. Public participation and family culture[J]. Social Sciences in Guangxi, 2008(4):198-201.]
[12] 杨小静,曹小琴.客家"六礼"婚庆传统对现代婚庆产品设计的创新启示[J].设计,2017(5):118-119.[Yang Xiaojing, Cao Xiaoqin. Study on influence of Hakka "Liuli" marriage tradition on marriage product innovative design[J]. Design, 2017(5):118-119.]
[13] Cheung S. Food and cuisine in a changing society:Hong Kong[M]//Cheung S, Wu D. The Globalization of Chinese Food. Honolulu:University of Hawaii Press, 2002:100-112.
[14] 郭文,蔡晓梅.旅游流动关联与家空间生产的流动治理[J].旅游学刊,2021,36(11):5-7.[Guo Wen, Cai, Xiaomei. Tourism flow correlation and flow management of home space production[J]. Tourism Tribune, 2021,36(11):5-7.]
[15] 陈业强,林圭琴.福建长汀客家婚姻习俗变迁考察[J].贵州师范学院学报,2015,31(2):37-41.[Chen Yeqiang, Lin Guiqin. Research on the changes of Hakka's marriage custom in changting county of Fujian province[J]. Journal of Guizhou Normal College, 2015,31(2):37-41.]
[16] Carstens S A. The spiritual world of a Hakka village[J]. Taiwan Journal of Southeast Asian Studies, 2007,4(1):29-64.
[17] Del Casino V J. Social geography I:Food[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2014,39(6):800-808.
[18] Marouf M, Batal M, Moledor S, et al. Exploring the practice of traditional wild plant collection in Lebanon[J]. Food, Culture&Society, 2015,18(3):355-378.
[19] Wong S H. A taste of the past:Historically themed restaurants and social memory in Singapore[M]//Cheung S, Chee-Beng T. Food and Foodways in Asia:Resource, Tradition and Cooking. New York:Routledge, 2007:115-128.
[20] Esterik P V. Celebrating ethnicity:Ethnic flavor in an urban festival[J]. Ethnic Groups, 1982,4(4):207-227.
[21] Lee H. Chinese feelings:Notes on a ritual theory of emotion[J]. Wenshan Review of Literature and Culture, 2016,9(2):1-37.
[22] Anderson B. Affective atmosphere[J]. Emotion, Space and Society, 2009,2(2):77-81.
[23] Pollock S. Towards an archaeology of commensal spaces:An introduction[M]//Pollock S. Between Feasts and Daily Meals:Towards an Archaeology of Commensal Spaces. Berlin:Topoi, 2015:7-28.
[24] Duruz J. Floating food:Eating'Asia'in kitchens of the diaspora[J]. Emotion, Space and Society, 2010,3(1):45-49.
[25] 龙晓添.民俗和民间生活研究中的实践理论[J].民间文化论坛, 2019(4):50-68.[Long Xiaotian. Practice theory in folklore studies[J]. Folklore Literature Forum, 2019(4):50-68.]
[26] Warde A. The Practice of Eating[M]. Cambridge:Polity Press, 2016:1-11.
[27] Gram-Hanssen K. Standby consumption in households analyzed with a practice theory approach[J]. Journal of Industrial Ecology, 2010,14(1):150-165.
[28] Shove E, Pantzar M, Watson M. The Dynamics of Social Practice:Everyday Life and How It Changes[M]. London:Sage, 2012:1-19.
[29] Blue S, Shove E, Carmona C, et al. Theories of practice and public health:Understanding (un) healthy practices[J]. Critical Public Health, 2016,26(1):36-50.
[30] Jackson P, Evans D, Truninger M, et al. Tasting as a social practice:A methodological experiment in making taste public[J]. Social&Cultural Geography, 2022,23(5):739-756.
[31] Wu M, Tong Y, Wall G, et al. Cultural production and transmission in museums:A social practice perspective[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2021,87:1-14.
[32] Welch D, Yates L. The practices of collective action:Practice theory, sustainability transitions and social change[J]. Journal of The Theory of Social Behaviour, 2018,48(3):288-305.
[33] Hargreaves T. Practice-ing behaviour change:Applying social practice theory to pro-environmental behaviour change[J]. Journal of Consumer Culture, 2011,11(1):79-99.
[34] Røpke I. Theories of practice:New inspiration for ecological economic studies on consumption[J]. Ecological Economics, 2009, 68(10):2490-2497.
[35] Maller C, Strengers Y. The global migration of everyday life:Investigating the practice memories of Australian migrants[J]. Geoforum, 2013,44:243-252.
[36] Maller C, Strengers Y. Resurrecting sustainable practices:Using memories of the past to intervene in the future[M]//Strengers Y, Maller C. Social Practices, Intervention and Sustainability beyond Behaviour Change:From Theory to Therapy. London:Routledge, 2014:147-162.
[37] House J. Insects are not'the new sushi':Theories of practice and the acceptance of novel foods[J]. Social&Cultural Geography, 2019, 20(9):1285-1306.
[38] 南雄年鉴编纂委员会.南雄年鉴[M].广州:广东人民出版社,2015:56-60.[Nanxiong Yearbook Committee. Nanxiong Yearbook[M]. Guangzhou:Guangdong People's Publishing House, 2015:56-60.]
[39] 罗凯燊.南雄市志[M].北京:方志出版社,2012:649-650.[Luo Kaishen. Annals of Nanxiong City[M]. Beijing:China Local Records Publishing, 2012:649-650.]
[40] Chang K, Anderson E. Food in Chinese Culture:Anthropological and Historical Perspectives[M]. New Haven:Yale University Press, 1977:50-60.
[41] Oxfeld E. Bitter and Sweet:Food, Meaning, and Modernity in Rural China[M]. Oakland:University of California Press, 2017:1-30.
[42] 彭满洪,陈兴.性别与权力:女性主义视角下乡村"家"空间的演变——以成都市明月村为例[J].地域研究与开发,2023,42(1):155-160.[Peng Manhong, Chen Xing. Gender and power:The evolution of'home'space from the perspective of feminism[J]. Area Research and Development, 2023,42(1):155-160.]
[43] 管晓盛.梅县地区客家娘酒的产业发展概述[J].食品安全导刊,2022(32):153-155,162.[Guan Xiaosheng. Summary of industrial development of Hakka Niang wine in Meixian county[J]. China Food Safety, 2022(32):153-155,162.]
[44] Sobal J, Wansink B. Kitchenscapes, tablescapes, platescapes, and foodscapes[J]. Environment and Behavior, 2007,39(1):124-142.
[45] 王雨磊,王宁.人情债与人情味:农村宴席中的关系再生产[J].中州学刊,2012(4):107-111.[Wang Yulei, Wang Ning. Debt of humanity and humane:Reproduction of relationships in rural banquets[J]. Academic Journal of Zhongzhou, 2012(4):107-111.]
[46] 余构雄.都市水上夜游空间生产研究[D].广州:华南理工大学, 2018:101.[Yu Gouxiong. Research on Urban Water Night Tour Space Production[D]. Guangzhou:South China University of Technology, 2018:101.]
[47] 陶伟,蒋伟,何新.平遥古城民居之门的形态变迁及其家的观念表征[J].地理研究,2014,33(12):2418-2426.[Tao Wei, Jiang Wei, He Xin. The morphological change of vernacular dwelling gate and conceptual representation of home:A case study of Pinyao[J]. Geographical Research, 2014,33(12):2418-2426.]
[48] Lefebvre H. The Production of Space[M]. Cambridge:Polity, 1991:1-11.
[49] Heggheim R. Three Cases in China on Hakka Identity and Selfperception[D]. Oslo:University of Oslo, 2011:45-49.
[50] Roysen R, Mertens F. New normalities in grassroots innovations:The reconfiguration and normalization of social practices in an ecovillage[J]. Journal of Cleaner Production, 2019,236:117647.https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2019.117647.
[51] 周建新.族群认同、文化自觉与客家研究[J].广西民族学院学报(哲学社会科学版),2005(2):75-79.[Zhou Jianxin. Ethnic Identity, culture consciousness and Hakka culture[J]. Journal of Guangxi University for Nationalities, 2005(2):75-79.]
[52] 郑雅文.客家婚庆文化的民族化传承与创新研究——以婚庆礼品包装设计为例[D].南昌:江西师范大学, 2018:1-2.[Zheng Yawen. Research on the Nationalization Inheritance and Innovation of Hakka Wedding Culture[D]. Nanchang:Jiangxi Normal University, 2018:1-2.]